How to Fix a Patchy Lawn
Reseeding bare patches without finding the cause usually means the patches return the following year. Start by identifying why they appeared.
Step 1 — Find the cause
Different causes need different fixes. Reseeding into compacted soil without first aerating, or into an area that has a grub problem, will fail.
Heavy wear
Signs: Bald, compacted soil under the patch — often in the same spots every year (gateways, goalposts, paths).
Fix: Hollow-tine aerate to relieve compaction before reseeding. Reseed with a hard-wearing ryegrass blend. Vary the path of foot traffic where possible.
Shade
Signs: Thin, moss-prone grass under trees or along north-facing fences.
Fix: Overseed with a shade-tolerant mix (fine fescues). Trim back overhanging branches where possible. Accept that dense shade under mature trees will always struggle.
Compaction
Signs: Hard surface, poor drainage, slow growth, moss. Water sits on the surface rather than soaking in.
Fix: Hollow-tine aerate across the whole area, not just the patch. Brush sharp sand into the holes. Reseed after aeration.
Grub damage
Signs: Patches of turf that lift easily — like a loose carpet — especially in autumn. Birds or foxes pecking at the lawn.
Fix: Apply nematodes (Steinernema feltiae for leatherjackets, Heterorhabditis bacteriophora for chafer grubs) in late summer while soil is warm and moist. Reseed after treatment.
Fungal disease
Signs: Circular or irregular brown patches, sometimes with a pale or pinkish fringe. Worse in damp, mild weather.
Fix: Improve drainage and air circulation. Avoid late-evening watering. Feed with an autumn feed to harden grass. Fungicide for severe cases.
Drought damage
Signs: Large areas of straw-coloured grass, usually recovering with rain. No obvious mechanical damage to the surface.
Fix: Most cool-season grasses recover naturally once rain returns. If patches remain bare after recovery, overseed in early autumn.
Step 2 — Prepare the area
- 1Rake out all dead grass and debris from the patch.
- 2Loosen the top 2–5 cm of soil with a garden fork or hollow tine aerator — new roots need loose soil.
- 3If the soil is very compacted, work in a small amount of sharp sand or top dressing compost.
- 4Level the area so it sits flush with the surrounding turf — a hollow will pool water; a mound will scalp during mowing.
Preparation tools
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Step 3 — Top dress and seed
- 1Apply a thin layer (max 1 cm) of lawn top dressing — a mix of compost and sharp sand works well. Rake it level with the surrounding turf.
- 2Sow grass seed at 35–50 g/m² (check the bag for your specific product). Spread evenly — bare spots after germination are usually caused by uneven seeding.
- 3Firm the seed into the surface with your foot or the back of a rake. Good seed-to-soil contact is essential for germination.
- 4Water gently — a fine spray, not a torrent. Keep the seed moist for 2–3 weeks. If it dries out during germination the seeds die.
Seeding kit
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When to overseed
Best window: late August – October
Soil is still warm (above 8–10 °C) from summer, so germination is fast. Rain is more reliable than midsummer. Weed competition is lower in autumn than spring. Most grass seed germinates in 7–14 days in good autumn conditions.
Spring overseeding (April–May) also works but germination is slower in colder soil, and young grass competes with weeds during summer. Avoid midsummer — dry conditions and fast weed growth make establishment difficult.
Choosing the right seed
Hard-wearing / family lawn
Perennial ryegrass-dominant mix. Recovers quickly from wear. Best for lawns that get regular use.
Fine / ornamental lawn
Fescue and bent grass mix. Slower to establish, needs more maintenance, but finer texture and deep green colour.
Shade tolerant
Fine fescue dominant. Tolerates lower light levels — use under trees or along north-facing walls.
Drought tolerant
Tall fescue blends. Deeper rooting, handles dry summers better. More coarse in texture.
First cut and aftercare
- •Wait until new grass reaches 5 cm before the first cut. Cut to 4 cm — never remove more than a third.
- •Keep heavy foot traffic off the repaired area for at least 6–8 weeks.
- •If patchy germination occurs, re-overseed the missed areas straight away — early autumn is the easiest window.
- •Apply a light feed (half-rate spring fertiliser) 6 weeks after germination to support establishment.
Not sure what caused your patches? Photograph your lawn for an AI diagnosis.
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