Guides

Understanding Lawn Fertiliser

Lawn feeds all look similar on the shelf, but the numbers on the bag make a significant difference. Here is what they mean and how to use them correctly.

What NPK means

Every fertiliser bag shows three numbers — for example 20-5-10. These are the NPK percentages by weight of:

N

Nitrogen

Drives leaf and shoot growth — the green, lush look. The most important nutrient for spring and summer.

P

Phosphorus

Supports root development. Most established lawns have adequate phosphorus — high-P feeds are mainly useful for new seedings or very sandy soils.

K

Potassium

Hardens cell walls, improves disease resistance, and helps grass tolerate cold and drought. Key in autumn feeds.

A 20-5-10 fertiliser contains 20% nitrogen, 5% phosphorus, and 10% potassium. Apply 35 g/m² and you are giving the lawn 7 g/m² of nitrogen.

Spring vs autumn feed

Spring / summer feed

High nitrogen (N), moderate potassium. Typical ratio: 20-5-10 or similar. Promotes vigorous green growth and recovery from winter.

When: March–July

Autumn / winter feed

Low or zero nitrogen, high potassium. Typical ratio: 4-5-20 or similar. Hardens grass for winter and improves disease resistance.

When: September–October

Do not apply a high-nitrogen feed in autumn. It encourages soft leafy growth that is vulnerable to frost and fungal disease. Always use an autumn-specific product after mid-August.

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Slow-release vs quick-release

Quick-release (standard granules, liquid)

  • +Results visible in 7–14 days
  • +Less expensive
  • Risk of scorch if over-applied or applied to dry grass
  • Feeds for 4–6 weeks, then needs repeating

Slow-release (coated granules, mini-prills)

  • +Feeds evenly over 8–12 weeks
  • +Lower risk of scorch
  • +One or two applications per season usually sufficient
  • More expensive per kg

Iron and lawn sand

Lawn sand is a mixture of sharp sand, sulphate of iron, and sulphate of ammonia (nitrogen). It is not strictly a fertiliser but is widely used in spring for two reasons:

  • Iron kills moss — it turns the moss black and weakens it within 2–3 weeks, after which it can be raked out
  • The nitrogen encourages strong grass growth to fill gaps left by the dying moss
  • The sand opens up the soil surface slightly, improving drainage
Note on iron: repeated heavy applications acidify the soil over time. Test your soil pH every 2–3 years if you use lawn sand regularly.

Iron and application tools

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How to apply

  1. 1Use a spreader for even coverage. Uneven application causes stripes — over-fed areas can scorch; under-fed areas stay pale.
  2. 2Calibrate the spreader to the manufacturer's recommended setting. The bag will state grams per square metre — aim for that, not more.
  3. 3Apply to dry grass but ideally when rain is forecast within 48 hours. If no rain comes, water the granules in to prevent scorch.
  4. 4Do not apply in direct hot sun or during drought — risk of scorch is significantly higher.
  5. 5Keep children and pets off the lawn until the product has been watered in and the grass is dry.

When not to feed

  • During drought or when the lawn is visibly dry — fertilising stressed grass causes scorch and makes the problem worse.
  • On frozen or snow-covered ground — nutrients cannot be taken up and will leach away.
  • In late autumn (after October) using a high-nitrogen product — soft growth is vulnerable to frost.
  • Immediately after scarification or heavy work — wait 2–3 weeks for the lawn to recover.

Pale, yellow, or patchy lawn? Photograph it for an AI diagnosis — identify nutrient deficiency, moss, or disease.

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