Lawn Care Calendar
A season-by-season guide to the main lawn care tasks. Timing is approximate for a temperate Northern European / UK climate — adjust for your local conditions.
Spring (March – May)
First cut of the year
Early springWait until the grass is actively growing and the ground is not waterlogged. Set the blade high (5–6 cm) for the first few cuts — never remove more than a third of the blade length at once.
Apply spring fertiliser
When soil reaches 10 °CUse a high-nitrogen spring/summer feed to kick-start green growth. Apply to dry grass and water in if no rain is forecast within 48 hours. Do not feed drought-stressed or frozen grass.
Spot-treat weeds
March–AprilApply selective weed killer when weeds are actively growing. Dandelions, clover, and plantain respond well. Avoid treating during drought or frost.
Apply lawn sand if moss is present
Mid-springLawn sand (iron + nitrogen + sand) kills moss and greens up the lawn. Leave for 2–3 weeks until moss turns black, then rake or scarify it out.
Repair bare patches
April–MayLightly fork over bare areas, apply top dressing, sow grass seed, firm down and keep moist. Soil temperature needs to be at least 8–10 °C for good germination.
Spring essentials
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Summer (June – August)
Mow regularly
Every 7–10 daysFor most home lawns, cut to 3–4 cm. Increase to 5–6 cm during dry spells — longer grass shades the soil and reduces water loss. Keep blades sharp.
Water deeply and infrequently
During dry spellsA long soak once or twice a week is more effective than light daily watering, which encourages shallow roots. Water early morning to reduce evaporation.
Optional second feed
June (if not drought)A liquid feed or light granular application in early summer keeps colour up. Skip this entirely if the lawn is showing drought stress — fertilising a dry lawn can scorch it.
Collect clippings in hot weather
OngoingClippings left on the lawn in hot weather can mat and cause yellowing. In mild, moist conditions leaving clippings is fine and returns nutrients.
Autumn (September – November)
Hollow-tine aerate
Early autumn (Sept)Autumn is the best time to aerate — soil is still warm, grass recovers quickly, and rain helps the lawn fill in. Remove plugs of soil to relieve compaction and improve drainage.
Scarify to remove thatch
After aerationUse a powered scarifier or spring-tine rake to remove the layer of dead organic matter (thatch). The lawn will look rough afterwards — this is normal. It will recover within a few weeks.
Top dress and overseed
After scarificationApply a thin layer (max 1 cm) of top dressing, then broadcast grass seed at the recommended rate (overseeding). Keep moist for 2–3 weeks until established. Early autumn (late Aug–Sept) gives the best germination conditions.
Apply autumn feed
September–OctoberAutumn feeds are low in nitrogen and high in potassium — they harden the grass for winter and improve disease resistance. Do not apply after October as it encourages soft growth susceptible to frost.
Remove fallen leaves
October–NovemberLeaves left on the lawn over winter block light and harbour disease. Rake or blow them off regularly — do not let them mat down.
Autumn essentials
Autumn Lawn Feed
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Hollow Tine Aerator
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Grass Seed
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Lawn Top Dressing
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Winter (December – February)
Stay off frozen or waterlogged grass
December–FebruaryWalking on frozen turf breaks grass blades. Walking on waterlogged grass compacts the soil. Both cause patches and slow recovery the following spring.
Light cut if grass is growing
Mild spellsIn mild winters, grass continues to grow slowly. A high cut (5–6 cm) on a dry day tidies the lawn without stressing it.
No feeding
ThroughoutDo not apply fertiliser in winter. Grass is not actively growing and cannot take up nutrients — you will just encourage soft growth that is vulnerable to disease and frost damage.
Continue removing leaves
After leaf fallEven in winter, leaves that blow onto the lawn should be removed. A few hours under a wet leaf layer can cause yellowing and disease.
Quick-reference table
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